What is French food today? At Larkspur’s Left Bank Brasserie – at 30 years, the doyenne of French cuisine in Marin – Escargot, swaddled in Pernod, brown butter, and fresh herbs is at once garlicky and earthy, the flavors of Burgundy writ large. Perhaps as popular as the escargot is the Dungeness Crab Burger. Served with tartar sauce and pickles, it is the single most requested dish on Executive Chef Amelito Ochoa’s Special Menu.
Trained by Owner-Chef Roland Passot and Joel Guillom, a Master Chef of France, and in concert with Brand Chef Ed Witt, Ochoa has been with the restaurant for 25 years, five of them as Executive Chef. An insistence on the freshest ingredients paired with classic French techniques resonates with the community and the restaurant’s distinctly French vibes.
Ochoa’s Specials Menu, which changes with the season and what’s in the local markets, ventures into Californian flavors in dishes like Linguini Prawns Provençale, Seafood Paella, Salad Lyonnaise, and that Crab Burger, adding flair and just the right amount of modernism. Another local touch? An expansive Steak Frites program, featuring Marin’s own Flannery Beef. Choose from Hangar Steak au Poivre, 28-Day-Aged New York Strip, or Skirt Steak, and your steak arrives served with a la minute fried potatoes and a classic French sauce (bearnaise, bordelaise, etc.).
And if Duck Confit is more your style, it too, has been upgraded, this time with Liberty Duck from Petaluma. Classic French dishes updated to reflect modern sensibilities and the incredible bounty of the California food shed – this defines what Left Bank is today.
At Left Bank, cocktail classics remain a powerful draw. “The Left Bank Espresso Martini is still super-hot,” says Operations Manager and Fairfax resident, Frank Caiazzo. The drink has menu staying power and was recently upgraded to feature Oakland’s Mister Espresso coffee. It’s part of the restaurant’s shift to working with more local purveyors, revivifying classic cocktails for the modern palate.
A fresh take on a sour cocktail is the Blood and Basil Sour. Enriched with egg white and dry gin, the base drink is a classic sour. Garnished with basil, cheese, and cherry tomato, the drink riffs on a Caprese, adding savory notes and a whiff of spring’s warmth. House favorite Spicy Margarita with pineapple and jalapeño now goes toe-to-toe with a trendy Passion Fruit Sunset, a refreshing Aperol and tequila-based cocktail served without salt.
The restaurant’s community spirit and joie de vivre slides into the daily Happy Hour menu where, from 3-6 p.m., sliders ($6) and half moules frites ($12 for ½ lb.), are easily paired with well spirits ($8) and wine and beer specials ($6).
An extended list of hard to find, older vintage French and California wines and a by-the-glass program features mainly French wines, including a sparkling rosé and what Caiazzo calls ‘a legitimate French champagne’ ($12-24). “We are right on the corner which puts us at the center of the community,” Caiazzo says. “That’s the juice of what we do.”
Left Bank Brasserie is deeply committed to giving back to the community, supporting a wide range of local nonprofits and causes.
The restaurant is actively involved with the Larkspur Chamber of Commerce and maintains meaningful partnerships with Bridge the Gap, Larkspur City Hall, the Lark Theater, the Redwood High School Foundation, KIK (Kentfield Invests in Kids), and SPARK (the Larkspur–Corte Madera Schools Foundation). “Like any small town,” says Caiazzo, “you get back what you put into it.”
